Pingus 2021, 2020, 2017

Crítica

2021 / 100 puntos
Sisseck believes the texture of the 2021 Pingus is the finest he has achieved since the beginning and something that the Tempranillo does very well. There is a chalky feeling, which is not surprising, because the mother rock is pure limestone—even if some plots (Barroso) have more clay on top, deeper down is hard limestone and some sandstone. There is a sense of harmony and purity that I see in most of the 2021s. There's more depth, more concentration and more tannin here, and it's a wine for the very long haul; it's very, very young, but it's super harmonious and balanced. There's energy, clout and power but with great finesse. They have learned to control the extraction, and all of the grapes fermented with indigenous yeasts (each plot ferments on its own, there's no pied de cuve or anything); they are very careful to decide the moment they press, tasting a lot with a lot of precision, getting samples and sitting down to taste every day after the wine has fermented dry. He fermented the wine with some 30% of the clusters, which are selected at the sorting table when they see a perfect bunch. When they have full clusters, they have to do a delicate pigeage (not the case in 2022, but he used some in 2023). This is a super elegant and powerful Pingus that should age for a very, very long time in bottle. It very much follows the style of the years I like the most: 1996, 2016 and 2018. 7,974 bottles were filled in June 2023.
2020 / 99 puntos
The bottled 2020 Pingus has settled, and the strong Mediterranean accent that was quite strong early on seems to have calmed down. The wine shows more of the serious Pingus character and is harmonious, balanced and elegant, perhaps because of the time it spent in oak vat (starting this year, it is not only in barrique). It feels very complete and intense but without weight or heaviness, and the fruit shows very clean and focused. Peter Sisseck compared it with the 2000, a wine that for him transcends the vintage; it showcases the balance (wines like 1996, 2000, 2012, 2016 and 2018). The quality of the tannins is stunning, which make the wine very elegant and balanced, and it has good freshness (even some red fruit!). This is exceptionally good, but somehow my heart didn't beat like with the wines he compared them with... 7,500 bottles were filled in July 2022. End of January 2023, The Wine Advocate
2019 / 99 puntos
I tasted the bottled 2019 Pingus two weeks after bottling. Even at this early stage and after the operation, the wine is super harmonious and elegant. They really outdid themselves here and produced an amazingly fresh, aromatic and harmonious wine in a warm vintage. It's incredibly textured, with refined, very fine-grained and chalky tannins. It's very balanced, and there's no excess of anything; it has 14% alcohol, perfect ripeness and a velvety mouthfeel. It gets more floral with time in the glass, getting nuanced and really interesting. It delivers what the barrel sample promised one year ago, when the wine already surprised me. I think the word that best describes this wine is precision—it's clean, focused, balanced and delineated. Bravo! 7,900 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2021.
2018 / 100 puntos
I was really looking forward to the bottled version of the 2018 Pingus after a great showing of the cask sample last year. Part of the wine matured in 20,000-liter oak casks, so it's not all barrique. This is the first time they used the vats, and based on the results, Sisseck thinks in the future Pingus will be around 50% in oak vats. The Pingus vines were planted in 1929 in two different sectors of the village of La Horra, Barroso and San Cristobal and contain some 2% other varieties. The vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic and are manicured like few vineyards in Spain. The wine is subtle and harmonious, elegant and insinuating, with all the components in very good balance. This is precise and pure; Sisseck is thorough and meticulous, and the wine shows that precision. This follows the line of the 2016, showing very well even if it was bottled only one month before I tasted it. 9,300 bottles were filled in August 2020.
2017 / 97 puntos
I also tasted the 2017 Pingus, which had a tough competition with the bottled 2016 and a barrel sample of the 2018 (and the fermenting 2019, but that doesn't really count). 2017 was a weird vintage for the zone, as the year was marked by one spring frost that decimated the crop and completely changed the balance of the year. In 2007, they put a windmill in one of the plots, and although the plot was not able to escape the frost, it was not as acute as it was in the Flor de Pingus vineyards, where they lost up to 40% of the crop. At the Pingus vineyards, they lost some 25% of the grapes. They started the élevage in used barriques, where they wine matured for 12 months, and then moved the wine to larger barrels so they could extend the aging. There are alternate sensations of ripeness and herbal aromas. You can see a little bit of the tannic style of a concentrated year (1995, 2004, 2014), which is very different from fluid years like 2016 or 1996, with a rustic Ribera character. They saved the vintage with their knowledge of their vineyards, whereas in the past, a vintage like this could have been a disaster. Sometimes wines like this can have an unexpected development in bottle... 5,700 bottles were filled in July 2019.